Scottoiler repair and a new light

The Scottoiler was fitted to my bike when I got it and after 11,000 km I have never had to touch the chain.  I didn't like the way the outlet met the chain though.  It always needed adjusting.  I checked out the Scottoiler site (www.scottoiler.com) and saw they had a new method for fixing the end piece on, so ordered some new tube and the end piece, which now looks like this and is far more rigid:

I also installed the Givi V46 interior light kit for the top box:

It has a lid switch plus you can manually turn it on and off.  It had to be assembled, which was fiddly and a right pain!

Some videos

This first one is some guy doing a track day on a 1250N Bandit.  He's certainly not messing about and that's the place to do higher speed stuff..  Good to see a Bandit being used hard without being foolish.






This second one is someone going for a ride through what I am told is Brazil.  It almost ends badly with some idiot nearly hitting him head on.  Both videos make me want to get a helmet cam and take some NZ footage for posting on Youtube.

Hmm....I think I shall do some helmet cam research

New brake pads

I did my 18,000 km service the other day and thought I'd check the brake pads.  They were about half worn.  I wasn't that impressed with the pads, so checked Dale Walker's site (www.holeshot.com).  He recommends Ferodo pads: sintered on the front for good bite, and platinum on the rear for a softer initial application.  I trust him, so that's what I went for.

The part numbers are:

Sintered Front	Part No. FDB-574-ST
Platinum Rear	Part No. FDB-754-P

They are easy to replace and I took the opportunity to replace the fluid and bleed the brakes (bought a basic brake bleeder kit which made it easier).

The fronts definitely bite harder and stop better.  The rear seems fine as well, and they were a good choice:

Helped a fellow Bandit rider

A friend has a blue K8 tourer, and I spent a happy afternoon showing him how to do the air filter, plugs, oil and air filter, lube the chain and general maintenance on his one.  He was happy, I was entertained, and a good day was had by all.

Great chain lube

I discovered this the other day.  Most chain lube leaves some residue on the wheel etc.  This stuff dries to a waxy teflon film which doesn't attract dust.  Great on linkages etc and really good on the chain.  Not cheap at $32NZD a can, but lasts ages and I use it on all sorts of things.  Good stuff.

Dummies guide to cleaning

I ride my bike daily in all sorts of weather, and friends are always intrigued how I keep it looking like new, despite the fact it's coming up to a 4th birthday soon.  This is what I use:

• Rinse bike with water, then use car wash (Turtlewax) in a bucket and use a cloth to get off the solid stuff.
• I then dry it with a clean towel and let the water remnants evaporate in the sun.
• I usually then lube the chain, and give all of the pivot points a squirt of lube
• I then use pledge on all of the plastics - the blue one designed for hard surfaces.  It works beautifully on the fairing, indicators, mirrors, black plastics like the guards and the Givi cases and instruments. (I keep Pledge on the bike to keep my visor clean too)
• I then use Turtlewax Ice liberally on all painted surfaces and wheels.  It leaves no residue and shines beautifully and can be used every time.  It's even good on plastics, and much easier than waxes.
• I use wadding polish on the exhaust, and use Solvol Autosol on the more stubborn marks
• I then get a clean microfibre cloth and buff everything up

Keeping a coat of wax (or in this case some synthetic polymer) on the bike keeps it looking clean - no corrosion.  I use CRC to clean oil and tar spots off things and I find it's the little things that matter..

It leaves me with a clean bike, but also gives a good opportunity to see if there's any fasteners loose or anything that needs attention.

I know, I should be riding and not cleaning, but when I can't get out, the bike is all the better for it.

Cleaning Gear position switch

I have a GiPro ATRE fitted and noticed that it was getting erratic showing 5th and 6th gear, often reading "0".  The neutral light was also getting variable, and it was clear that the gear position switch was playing up.  Ordered one from the US and replaced it and all was good again for over a year. (Item 40 below)

Since then it started playing up again, so I got some contact cleaner, removed the switch and sprayed it until it ran clear.  Worked a treat, and I have fixed another one the other day.  Definitely the preferred option in the first instance is cleaning it, although I have had to clean it more and more and decided to replace it.

The GSF1250 part is 37730-18H01 but I ordered number 37730-18H02, which is the later switch for the GSX1250FA with the identical engine.  Works perfectly and I am hoping the different part number means Suzuki made it more reliable.   I have not seen any GSX owners reporting issues

Regarding cleaning, Jools listed some helpful photos and is happy for me to link to them, so try this for a step by step if you need it:

http://www.banditforum.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=46406.0

Jools' post pictures are reproduced below with his consent:

1.  Undo the red arrowed bolts

2.  It will look like this.  You can just see the gear position switch behind the gear shifter rod.  You don't need to remove it - just use a long allen key or drive head.  The sensor on the front just below the shifter rod with the single allen bolt is the speedo pickup (if your speedo is playing up, check that it isn't caked with old grease) 

3.  This next picture shows the switch up close.  Undo both bolts and pull the switch gently back, being careful not to displace the o-ring

4.  Flush the switch with contact cleaner until it runs clean, put blue loctite on the bolts and replace.  Don't overtighten it.