Bandit recall

The following notice has just hit the UK boards.  I have contacted Suzuki NZ to see if it applies here.  They came back to me and said an NZ recall would occur soon.  (And since writing this I have had it fixed for nothing, so all is well with the world)

If you’ve bought a Suzuki motorcycle in the past few years, you might want to check out the list for the Japanese company’s latest motorcycle recall. Affecting 73,426 motorcycles from various product lines and model years (2008-2010), Suzuki has discovered a faulty electrical rectifier/regulator in its design that needs replacing.

According to the recall, rectifiers/regulators on bikes built between July 2007 and September 2009 have an inadequate amount of adhesion between the power module and the case, which results in the unit not sufficiently being cooled by its heat sink (affected Suzuki part numbers are: 32800-41F11, 32800-15H10, 32800-05H11, 32800-41G10, 32800-15H00, 32800-18H00, 32800-05G10, 32800-10G10, 32800-05H20, OR 32800-06G01). As a result the unit’s circuit board could warp, and become dislodged from its casing.

Should the rectifier/regulator start malfunctioning because of this condition, the motorcycle would improperly charge its electrical system, likely draining the battery, and possibly causing the motorcycle to stall. Suzuki will notify owners affected by the issue, and a Suzuki distributor will replace the affected part for free. The recall is expected to take place March 2, 2011, the affected models are listed below. Concerned Suzuki owners can contact Suzuki 1-714-996-7040, and as always the NHTSA is available at 1-888-327-4236 or at the safercar.gov website.

Affected Model	Affected Model Year
Suzuki / AN400	2008-2009
Suzuki / DL1000	2008-2009
Suzuki / GSF1250	2008-2009
Suzuki / GSX-R600	2008-2009
Suzuki / GSX-R750	2008-2009
Suzuki / GSX1300B	2008
Suzuki / GSX1300R	2008-2010
Suzuki / GSX650F	2008-2009
Suzuki / SFV650	2009-2010
Suzuki / VL800	2008-2010
Suzuki / VLR1800	2008-2009
Suzuki / VZ1500	2009-2010

Source: NHTSA

Scottoiler repair and a new light

The Scottoiler was fitted to my bike when I got it and after 11,000 km I have never had to touch the chain.  I didn't like the way the outlet met the chain though.  It always needed adjusting.  I checked out the Scottoiler site (www.scottoiler.com) and saw they had a new method for fixing the end piece on, so ordered some new tube and the end piece, which now looks like this and is far more rigid:

I also installed the Givi V46 interior light kit for the top box:

It has a lid switch plus you can manually turn it on and off.  It had to be assembled, which was fiddly and a right pain!

Some videos

This first one is some guy doing a track day on a 1250N Bandit.  He's certainly not messing about and that's the place to do higher speed stuff..  Good to see a Bandit being used hard without being foolish.






This second one is someone going for a ride through what I am told is Brazil.  It almost ends badly with some idiot nearly hitting him head on.  Both videos make me want to get a helmet cam and take some NZ footage for posting on Youtube.

Hmm....I think I shall do some helmet cam research

New brake pads

I did my 18,000 km service the other day and thought I'd check the brake pads.  They were about half worn.  I wasn't that impressed with the pads, so checked Dale Walker's site (www.holeshot.com).  He recommends Ferodo pads: sintered on the front for good bite, and platinum on the rear for a softer initial application.  I trust him, so that's what I went for.

The part numbers are:

Sintered Front	Part No. FDB-574-ST
Platinum Rear	Part No. FDB-754-P

They are easy to replace and I took the opportunity to replace the fluid and bleed the brakes (bought a basic brake bleeder kit which made it easier).

The fronts definitely bite harder and stop better.  The rear seems fine as well, and they were a good choice:

Helped a fellow Bandit rider

A friend has a blue K8 tourer, and I spent a happy afternoon showing him how to do the air filter, plugs, oil and air filter, lube the chain and general maintenance on his one.  He was happy, I was entertained, and a good day was had by all.

Great chain lube

I discovered this the other day.  Most chain lube leaves some residue on the wheel etc.  This stuff dries to a waxy teflon film which doesn't attract dust.  Great on linkages etc and really good on the chain.  Not cheap at $32NZD a can, but lasts ages and I use it on all sorts of things.  Good stuff.

Dummies guide to cleaning

I ride my bike daily in all sorts of weather, and friends are always intrigued how I keep it looking like new, despite the fact it's coming up to a 4th birthday soon.  This is what I use:

• Rinse bike with water, then use car wash (Turtlewax) in a bucket and use a cloth to get off the solid stuff.
• I then dry it with a clean towel and let the water remnants evaporate in the sun.
• I usually then lube the chain, and give all of the pivot points a squirt of lube
• I then use pledge on all of the plastics - the blue one designed for hard surfaces.  It works beautifully on the fairing, indicators, mirrors, black plastics like the guards and the Givi cases and instruments. (I keep Pledge on the bike to keep my visor clean too)
• I then use Turtlewax Ice liberally on all painted surfaces and wheels.  It leaves no residue and shines beautifully and can be used every time.  It's even good on plastics, and much easier than waxes.
• I use wadding polish on the exhaust, and use Solvol Autosol on the more stubborn marks
• I then get a clean microfibre cloth and buff everything up

Keeping a coat of wax (or in this case some synthetic polymer) on the bike keeps it looking clean - no corrosion.  I use CRC to clean oil and tar spots off things and I find it's the little things that matter..

It leaves me with a clean bike, but also gives a good opportunity to see if there's any fasteners loose or anything that needs attention.

I know, I should be riding and not cleaning, but when I can't get out, the bike is all the better for it.