Replacement levers (yes again)

After breaking the brake lever in my crash, I bought some new ones off Ebay.  They look like Pazzos, but at $38 they are cost effective and very good quality.  My last set lasted a year with no wear, despite all weathers and have only been replaced due to the crash

Fitting an LED taillight

I got sick of a red taillight and clear indicators, so I fitted an integrated unit (e-marked).  It plugged straight into the standard socket, and a blue and yellow wire connected to the live feeds for the respective indicators.  I have kept the standard indicators for added visibility and it looks great

I also stuck silverised tape inside the indicator housing to increase the light output

and now with LED indicators:

Wiring heated grips

I often get asked about wiring heated grips.  The diagram below shows how.  You need a live feed that is switched with the ignition, and the wire to the number plate light is perfect.  Connect a 2 core cable to that and then to 85 and 86 of a SPDT (single pole double throw) 30A relay.  If you are cunning, get the sort with the built in fuse, otherwise you may need a 5 - 15A fuse depending on how much current your grips draw (they usually have a fuse as well).  (The instructions with them will tell you).

Use the plastic tray space behind the computer to velcro the relay down if you don't want to drill holes to mount it.

Run a 20 - 25A cable from your battery via the fuse to terminal 30, and run another from 87 to the positive of your grips.  The grips negative can be earthed anywhere on the frame.  Use corrugated cable tube to protect the cable from rubbing and heat.  Use good quality terminals and it pays to use heat shrink over them and any joins if you can.

Don't hook the grips to your battery or directly to any other feed on the bike.  You WILL end up with a flat battery, and you may burn your wiring if you don't use a relay.

On the bandit I ran the "brain" of the grips behind the fuse box and indicator relay under the left side cover.  It cable ties onto the metal frame that holds them both and bolts to the bike.

Holeshot headers

I installed a set of Holeshot headers made by Dale Walker (www.holeshot.com) on a friend's K9 Bandit.  Also installed a TFI, K and N, removed the airbox back, removed the secondaries to make it a stage III setup.  The headers are a lot lighter than standard and a lovely piece of kit. Great welds and a perfect fit.  He has the factory lower fairing and a bit of surgery may be needed there as the headers come out further than stock.  He's also got a Racefit Growler fitted.  The bike makes a deep growl now!   He's a very happy camper. (And he had it dynoed and it gave 130.8 hp and was very happy) 

Steering head and other linkages

Just checked the steering head bearings and they feel quite loose.  People are reporting a distinct lack of grease in the linkages and bearings on the steering head and rear shock/swingarm, so the lot's coming off to be checked and greased.

Have spent a happy hour or so this afternoon taking off the front fairing, and quite like the look.  I dropped the front wheel and lowered the steering head and got some grease into it.  Fairly straight forward, albeit timeconsuming.  The bearings were fine with adequate grease, but the steering head was quite loose.  I used the opportunity to clean it to within an inch of its life and check and lube everything and wax all the coated surfaces.

Looks like new!

Iridium plugs and BMC filter

I have heard good things about Iridium plugs, but they are about NZ$27 dollars each and too expensive.  Well, Ebay sorted that with a set for NZ$53 delivered, and I fitted them today.  I doubt I will feel any difference, but they won't need replacing for a long time.

The NGK part is CR7EIX

I also have a BMC filter fitted, so gave that a clean and a re-oil using the BMC cleaning kit.  Very much like a K and N.  Despite daily riding and an opened airbox, very clean.

PAIR removal

I had the PAIR line blocked at the union between the PAIR and airbox to eliminate decel popping from the Yoshi TRS exhaust.  I decided to go the whole hog, so bought a PAIR blockoff kit from Metrick Metal (www.metrickmetal.com).  This comes with a pair of nicely polished blanking plates, fasteners and a resistor to replace the solenoid.  This pic is of the Metrick Metal kit, which is nicely made.

The biggest challenge was undoing the allen head bolts on the PAIR covers.  Hard to get to and I ended up cutting down an allen key to get access.

The best bit is it tidies up the top of the engine and makes plug changes and removing the cam cover far easier.