Indicators and Givi V35s

I was asked about how to locate the indicator wires when mounting Givi V35 bags on side racks.  The Givi mounting bracket behind the taillight relocates the indicators further back, and if you try and use the existing holes on the fender, the wires aren't long enough.

I blocked those holes with plates designed to use to mount aftermarket indicators (search Suzuki Indicator adapters).  I used a black bolt and washer through the hole so they look stock.

I run the wires underneath the taillight lens, which is where Suzuki run the wires on factory side bag setups.  There's plenty of reach.

Other people's bike shots

A pic from a bike show somewhere.  Note the red hugger and rim tapes.  A bit tooooo red!

Now this is a bit simpler

And someone's been liberal with the bling

Removed the secondaries

Today I removed the secondary butterflies from the throttle bodies, opened up the airbox completely and re-set the TFI to Dale Walker's Stage II settings.  What a difference - completely smooth, spools up and down faster, better throttle response and feels like it should.

Stage 2 is the TFI, secondaries removed, PAIR plugged, BMC filter, Yoshi TRS, airbox opened right up and O2 sensor bypass.  Wow.

I haven't dynoed it, but Dale's extensive work shows the chart below.  The bike should be producing around 122 hp and 92.4 ft-lbs of torque.  Big fat gains right through the range and it feels it.  Max torque kicks in at 6,000 rpm.  At 5,000 rpm, that's 90 ft-lb, which is better than a B King at those revs.

Wellington Harbour shots

Taken this morning near Wellington Harbour

No real reason

It was. a nice day.  The bike got well cleaned.  Every nook and cranny, silicone spray, toothbrush etc.  One bloke looked at it the other day and thought it was new (fellow Bandit 1250 owner too).

Tank Support

I bought a tank stand/support from Metrick metal (www.metrickmetal.com).  It's aluminium and holds the tank up so you can adjust the throttle bodies or any other tasks that need access whilst the engine is running.  It's a useful piece of kit and I used it today to set up my throttle bodies.

Thottle Position Sensor (TPS) and Throttle Body sync

TPS:  For some time, I have noticed snatchiness at low speeds.  The dealers checked it for me at the 12,000 km tuneup, including the TPS setting (or so they said).  They said "all normal", but I didn't think so.  I checked the FI settings using the dealer mode switch and noticed it said "_C00".  The factory manual and Haynes manual all say that "C00" is normal, but the position of the hyphen is not discussed .

Overseas forums for the Bandit and other Suzukis (GSX650F/GSXRs) all indicate that _C00 (or the same but the hyphen in the upper position) indicates the TPS is out of adjustment.  The ideal is -C00, with the hyphen in the middle position.

Can I adjust it?  With a Suzuki SDS unit, yes.  It is also possible to manually adjust it by slightly moving the TPS unit on the left side of the throttle bodies.  It takes a Torx T20H security bit (with a hole in the middle) to slightly loosen the unit and adjust it by hand until -C00 shows.  It took me about 15 minutes (it's very sensitive) and checking on the SDS shows it is spot on, so this obviously works.

Throttle body sync

I used a Morgan Carbtune:

It's fairly straight forward.  Tank on blocks, run bike until it is hot and the fan is coming on.  Turn off.  Connect dealer switch:

Switch on, and bike will show -C00.  Disconnect The IPA sensor (number 1) and the 4 air hoses to the throttle bodies, replacing with the vacuum tubes from the Morgan Carb Tune.  Restart bike in dealer mode, which will show C13 (IAP Sensor disconnected).

Adjust air screws until all cylinders are the same (using number 2 as a guide).  Reassemble.